Brake Ducting Options...

Created: 8/22/00
Last updated: 9/13/00

Lee D. & Carl M. installed their ducting a little differently than I did.

Carl used the brackets (A) and routed the hose from his front blinkers (1). (imposible in a TT due to the intercoolers) In hind site, he says that it was a major PITA to route to the blinkers, and he is investigating using the fog lights instead...

Lee bought the brackets too, but still hasn't got around to installing them... He used 4" hose off of the funnels, reduced it down to 3", then stuffed it into the caliper opening and taped it in place... (2-7) (picture 7 was taken while the underpan was removed) In his own words:

"I used heat reflective tape around the hose so it didn't burn, and then used a tie wrap to keep the hose in the caliper hole. The tie wrap is from one of the metal wires in the hose to the brake line connection at the caliper. My caliper actually squeezes the hose too. At the moment, I think I'll keep the setup I have now, untill I find that it's either a pain in the ass to change pads, or it's not cooling my brakes enough. It's going to be a pain in the ass to cut my current hose, and then try to reduce the 3" hose to your 2" bracket. Especially if things are working fine as they are. If I had to do it all over again though, I'd use the bracket. "

**Note: if you used larger than 2" hose from the funnels, be sure to reduce it down to 2" before going in between the tension rod and the anti-sway bar up to the bracket. Since Lee squeezed in 3" hose up to the caliper, after a few months he had worn a large hole through the hose from the friction of the swaybar against the duct...

Lee responds below to the following questions:

"I have two questions at this time: With the duct hose running under the front pan, have you had any problems with it scraping the ground? (I am running Eibach 1" lowering springs. I don't remember if your car is lowered at all.)
With the shield modification described in step 5., it sounds like it will be necessary to run with the ducts open all of the time, even on the street, as the shield modification blocks off the normal (stock) air flow to the rotors. Is this correct?"


"I'm running the Eibach .75" drop springs with STOCK wheels. Unlike Carl, who has 17" w/.75" Eibachs that make his car still higher than mine. Even after squashing my 4" hose under the car, it still scrapes if you don't take speed bumps reeeaaaallly slow. I've squashed the hose under the car so it's about 1" high and about 5-6" wide.

"I'd also like to get the sheilding that Bill has at the entrance to his funnel. When I unblocked my ducts once (I block them off by jamming shop towels inside), I found a cigarette butt, plastic wrapping, bugs, a few pebbles and some sand. Patrick, On another note, I drive all the time with my ducts blocked when I daily drive the car, and only open them for track events. I even keep them closed for autoxs. That's so I can keep the heat in my R4-S or R4 pads that I run. They don't work as well when they are cold. "